Saturday, September 26, 2009
Live in New York, every dictator & villain
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Noriega's Basque Cafe in Bakersfield
Saturday night five of us drove up to Bakersfield for dinner at Noriega’s Hotel. It has been there, near the Union Pacific (formerly Southern Pacific) Station, since 1893. A time warp, it is pretty much like it was and has an authentic feel few places have.
You walk into an old simple brick building into a large bar with the dining room behind it. Unlike the three or four other Basque places in Bakersfield, Noriega’s is very much a traditional place. There are three very long tables with stout “jury room” chairs for about 200 people. Dinner is served in one sitting at seven or a little after with one meal for all hands. Parties are seated up and down the tables more or less in the order they checked in. On this Saturday night, the patrons included half a dozen birthday groups and a dozen of middle aged middle class motorcycle weekend warriors who had rolled up from Ventura County.
The food is basque style home cooking, cooking as it was in my grandmother’s day. It is good, but not serious four star basque cooking. If you want to eat that I recommend the Orozko Dinning Room at the Nugget Hotel Casino in Sparks Nevada. The family that owns the hotel serves beef, lamb and chickens from their ranch and a fine selection of wines from Navarra.
At Noriega’s it is a homey but very good and authentic meal. When you enter the room and are seated the smell is like a country farm house kitchen fifty years ago. It smelled like my grandmother’s kitchen on a Sunday afternoon with a mix of American and Portuguese dishes cooking. The Basques are generally recognized as the best cooks in Iberia and while not the same, their cooking is close to Portuguese and regional Spanish styles. But it has its unique qualities and a heavy influence from the French side of the Pyrenees.
Waiting on the table is a large salad bowl dressed with a blue cheese based variation on Caesar dressing. A large steaming tureen of cabbage and vegetable soup is seasoned to the point and very much homemade. Around it are a large platter of tongue slices in a clean white wine vinaigrette, a bowl of stewed pinto beans, a large basket of sliced french bread, butter, a bowl of herbed seasoned cottage cheese, a plate of homemade American potato salad and a bowl of red tomato and pepper basque salsa picante. It is just this side of very hot. The salsa is added to the soup or pinto beans to bring them to whatever level you prefer. Cuidado, it is muy picante.
The meal went on after the soup and first course were cleared away with a platter of spaghetti marinara that was as good as any I’ve ever had, heavily dusted with Parmesan cheese but with a clean fresh tomato taste. Then Broccoli florets in a white hollandaise and finally the oxtail stew. This was again very tasty like our grandmothers or great grandmothers would have made. It was in unthickened cooking juices and not heavy. Finally we go platters of very crispy fried chicken heavily sprinkled with sautéed garlic cloves and a platter of home style french fries. “We don’t have to worry about vampires,” was Mara’s comment. Oddly the pungent sweetness of the sautéed garlic on the chicken cut through any greasiness and made an interesting dish.
At dinner coffee is not put on the table, you have to ask for it. The bar has some interesting basque liqueurs if you want to try one. Les Fleurs des Pyrenees is very good as are some others. The cost was remarkable in this day and age. Dinner is $20 per person including bottles of a fruity "dago red." Children are charge one dollar per year up through age twelve. Reservations are recommended but not necessary if you arrive before six thirty. It is a wonderful simple and authentic meal if you are in Bakersfield or want to make a day trip. The main courses change each day in a regular sequence.
There are other Basque restaurants and the locals are very seriously split between Noriega's or the Woolgrowers Café as the best. Both have been around for a hundred years. Woolgrowers has a set piece dinner too, but offers a variety of main courses. The two times I've been there I would say the steaks and the lamb chops are first rate. A round of five Picon Punches, the traditional Basque aperitif at Noriega's bar was twenty bucks.